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Welcome to Port Au Basques - the gateway to western Newfoundland. They even have a harbor traffic control center - very much like those at airports. Our passage from Nova Scotia was not without trial, however, we persisted and finally made it. Most the harbors in Newfoundland only have huge commercial wharfs. We arrived in thick fog, rain, and 25 knot winds. As we pulled along side the wharf a fellow jumped out of his minivan with an oxygen bottle under one arm and grabbed and cleated off our lines with the other arm as well as he could, considering the conditions. He then apologized to not doing a better job. We couldn't believe it. You sure would not see that back in the States. Canadian hospitality never ceases to amaze us.
By the way: We were firmly told before our trip North that Newfoundland is pronounced like 'understand' - with emphasis on the 'land'. You better get it right.
Many of the charts still used in Canada are based on the old British Admiralty Charts. One has to allow for errors.
Southwestern Newfoundland as seen stretching out beyond the harbor entrance.
This says it all:
The First Mate:
The harsh climate does not allow trees to grow. The terrain is basically rocks ground down by glaciers in the past and interspersed with scrub and boggy areas.
All the towns are made up of what they call "Salt Box" style housing. All structures are made of wood. The coastal towns always have at least one church standing on a high spot.
Fender boards are a must at these wharfs.
I believe these are "long line" fishing vessels.
This is what you look at from the boat. The wharf is always far overhead. There is usually and endless stream of curious locals that come by to visit, and one ends up standing on the cabin top in order to interact with them.
Ready, set, go. This is the ferry that goes between Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. They seem to always start out at full steam. It has been less than a minute since the ferry left the dock and note the bow wave that is already forming.
We happened to arrive during "Come Home" week. Since the fisheries collapse all the young people must move away to get work. Every year or so each town has big "Come Home" celebrations which are very much like a reunion for the whole town. All kinds of special events are scheduled. At the waterfront they had live "Newfie" bands every afternoon. Jigs are the predominate dance. What a treat.
A small dragger at rest - probably retired now that the fishery has collapsed - in a large part due to draggers ability scour the sea.
We will be sailing East from here, along the Southwest coast of Newfoundland.
Cute saying that we heard: Swim upstream - even a dead fish can go with the flow.
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